Grand Pacific II

We’re back to our normal routine of getting out of the room just before lunchtime. We were a bit early today though, so we had time to drop off some film for processing. While waiting for the Dining Room to open, we watched the video of Pitcairn Island. Jeff always manages to get us into the day’s pictures, although this time we are doing what we always do…nothing.

Appetizers
Potato Omelet with Forest Mushrooms and Yogurt Herb Sauce
Fresh Poached Salmon Fillet with Cucumber Salad and Dill Cream
Sliced Turkey Breast with Avocado Confit
Iced Fruit Cup with Grapes and Blue Curacao

From the Soup Kettle
Beef Consommé with Cheese Dumplings
Cream of Broccoli with Roasted Almonds
Vegetarian Consommé with Cheese Dumpling
Chilled Orange and Tomato Soup with Melon Balls, Blueberries, and Grapes

Pasta Special
Ziti Tagliati with Italian Sausage, Bell Peppers, Tomatoes, and Cilantro

Main Fares
Local Fried Fresh Fish Fillet
Grilled Turkey Cutlet
Sandwich of the Day – The San Francisco Roast Beef Sandwich
Traditional Cabbage Roll

Desserts
Apple Fritters with Vanilla Sauce
Three-Layered Chocolate Cake
Vanilla Custard with Blackberry Cognac Sauce
Sugar-Free Cream Cheese Strudel with Apples

All of the dishes were very good with the exception of the soup, which was a bit odd. As usual, we spent half the time talking to Augusto. He’s trying to figure out what we do when we aren’t traveling, but he doesn’t believe we do mostly nothing.

The weather is steamy today. It’s somewhat cloudy most of the time and very hot. The sea is rough with white caps, but the ride is very smooth. The ship must be going the same direction as the swells or something.

An email from Adair confirms that we are “invited” to go on the Crystal Serenity inaugural in July! Looks like we’ll have to book another segment to add to that one to make the flights worthwhile. Too bad, huh? Hmmm, now the question of whether to book next year’s World Cruise, too? By the way, wouldn’t you think that Crystal would notify guests currently on board that they are going on the inaugural? Not every travel agent is as coherent as Adair, you know.

Ural delivered a plate of fresh fruit with banana bread, along with the usual guacamole and chips. We had him take away the plate of sickly vegetables. He also took one of the stinky bouquets that have been dead for days.

It started to pour rain while Ural was here and he rushed out onto the verandah to cavort in it. He said there was a double rainbow the other day and it looked like the ship was sailing right through it. Lo and behold, one appeared at the rear of the ship.

We forgot to ask him if they have rum in the little bar bottles, so Bill went into the hallway to see if he was still around. Susanna wanted to know what he wanted, which, of course, made Ural re-appear at our door minutes later. They don’t have rum in little bottles, FYI.

The reason we wanted rum is to give it to Ger as the three-sighting drink. We think he’ll be amused by it. Too bad, no rum. We’ll just take something else for the effect.

Tonight’s dress code is Informal. We dawdled around talking to Ural for so long that we just waited until dinnertime to leave the room.

Appetizers
Smoked Shrimps with Russian Dressing and Spring Greens
Salmon-Halibut Carpaccio with Garden Greens and Herb Vinaigrette
Roasted Vegetable Roulade on Marinated Buffalo Mozzarella
Tropical Fruit Cup with Mango and Crème de Cacao

From the Soup Kettle
Chicken Broth with Semolina Dumplings
Cream of Sweet Potato with Lump Crabmeat
Cold Soup of Hawaiian Pineapple with Coconut

Salads
Heart of Romaine Lettuce with Tomato Wedges and Marinated Palm Hearts
Tossed Iceberg Lettuce with Tropical Fruit Dressing, Papaya and Sweet Walnuts

Main Fares
Grilled Fresh Mahi Mahi Fillet
Roast Beef Tenderloin
Osso Bucco Cremolata
Roasted Chicken Breast

Dessert
Mango Apple Tart Tatin with Vanilla Ice Cream
Chocolate Cognac Profiteroles with Raspberry Sauce
Nougat and Passion Fruit Cake
Sugar-Free Yogurt Mint Terrine
Sugar-Free Marble Vanilla Tart
Homemade Cookies
Assortment of Fruit in Season
Refreshing Orange Campari Sherbet

Food review: The Vegetable Roulade looked disgusting, much to Ger’s amusement. At least now we know that a roulade is a roll of something. In this case, slimy eggplant and maybe roasted red peppers. We have no idea, but it was pretty awful. Jerry said no one had ordered it, so he didn’t know what it was either. Now we both know. Both soups were acceptable. The Pineapple Soup looked like they just dumped a can of crushed pineapple into a bowl and thinned it with juice. It tasted fine and we’re sure it was made from scratch. The pineapple they have been serving is incredibly good. It’s sweet and not acidic at all. We’re going to look on the buffet tomorrow to see if there are any labels on the whole pineapples. The salad was boring except for the caramelized walnuts. Both entrees were exceptional. The beef was accompanied by a vile looking vegetable lasagna and an odd molded thing that may have been either potatoes or stuffing. We have no idea which if that tells you anything. The dessert was edible, but that’s about it. Jerry talked us out of the Passion Fruit Cake, probably for good reason.

We had to hang around the Dining Room for quite a while after we were finished. We didn’t want to give Ger the bottle with Jerry around in case it might cause some issues. As we were leaving, Augusto came over and we ended up talking to him for another half hour while Jerry and Ger finished cleaning up. Finally, Ger came over to tell us he was leaving, so Bill followed him and gave him the bottle out of Augusto’s earshot. He was quite amused by the whole thing and knew right away to keep it a secret between us.

Tonight’s production show is “Symphony of Nations.” We didn’t finish talking to Augusto until 11:00pm, so it was too late to go to the show. We probably wouldn’t have gone anyway, so no big loss.

Are you sitting down? We were up and out of the cabin by 9:30am this morning! Early enough for another breakfast in the Lido. Everyone is inside today because it is way too hot to go out. The Asia Café on deck this afternoon should certainly be steamy.

Dave overheard a waitress telling one of the Prego waiters that one of the girls had broken her foot at last night’s crew party. Sorry, no details yet, but we’ll try to find out something.

We ran into Ural in the hallway. He was so shocked he almost dropped the tray he was carrying. He’s going to drop off a box full of the liquor we have accumulated in his pantry. Ural didn’t know anything about the broken foot incident.

After breakfast we wandered down to give Renato some champagne and wish him a happy birthday. He couldn’t figure out how we found out until we told him it’s on the daily program on TV. The girls at the Front Desk thought it was a Valentine’s gift and wanted to know where theirs is.

We found Kellie, the replacement Cruise Consultant, at her desk, so we went to book the additional segment on Crystal Serenity’s inaugural. She whined about not having the information from the office even though travel agents know all about it. She did know that they aren’t assigning staterooms until March because the deadline for replying to the invitation is February 22^nd. There will be an official letter from the office delivered in Papeete, but she said it doesn’t tell us much of anything that we don’t already know.

Kellie is very friendly. She’s from the Crystal Harmony and was somewhat shocked that we have never been on that ship. She did say though that there are people with 40+ cruises who have only been on Crystal Symphony. We sat and chatted with her for about a half hour. She sure is an improvement over that women we had the little incident with several years ago.

Lara was sitting at her desk looking bored, so we stopped for a few minutes to talk about our respective dogs. We had to relate the cute details that Beverly had emailed about Jake and his new toys. She said she’d much rather talk about our dogs than listen to tales of the grandchildren she has to endure day in and day out.

The Crystal Plaza is all decked out for Valentine’s Day with a huge bouquet of red roses with a giant card in the center and red bunting draped around the railings. There is also red sparkly stuff hanging on the lights in the hallway outside of the Starlite Club.

We went in to ask Jan if he was going to the “Tea Dance” this afternoon. We realize this title won’t mean much to most of you and we’re not going to explain it. Let’s just say that they perhaps should have thought of something else to call it. Jan and the girls raved about the truffles we had brought them previously.

The opportunity finally came to get photos of Daniel and Paulo. Eventually we’ll get one of everyone we mention here so you’ll all be prepared for the quiz when we get home.

Appetizers
Tempura-Fried Vegetables with Daikon Dipping Sauce
Oriental Style Duck Salad in Boston Lettuce Leaves, Sprinkled with Sesame Dressing
Tomato Boat Filled with Sea Food Salad on Garden Greens
Chilled Tropical Fruit Cup with Orange Curacao

From the Soup Kettle
Hot and Sour Soup
Cream of Leek with Red Skin Potatoes
Cold Cream of Lychee Nuts

Salad Entrees
Californian Cobb Salad
Warm Mushroom Salad with Sweet Potato and Ham

Main Fares
Spicy Orange Chicken
Broiled Herb-Marinated Lemon Sole
Sandwich of the Day – Marinated Pulled Pork
Nasi Gorang

Desserts
Cream Cheese Pie Topped with Fresh Fruits
Chocolate Pecan Nut Tartlet with Vanilla Ice Cream
Apple and Apricot Crumble with Sauce Anglaise
Sugar-Free Napoleon with Fruit Sauce

Still full from breakfast, we skipped both the regular lunch and the buffet. We waited until around 3:00pm and went up to the Trident Grill for burgers and ice cream. It’s extremely hot outside, unbearable out by the pool due to the bright sun. Sitting out there lasted all of five minutes. Near the Neptune Pool, it was at least pleasant enough to stay long enough to finish eating.

While we were lounging there, a youngish woman walked by and asked if we are twins. Geez! Brothers are bad enough, but twins? Dave said, “We don’t look all that much alike.” She then listed all the ways we look alike, which included wearing the same kind of shirt (they are polo shirts, but otherwise they are not at all the same), similar glasses, and the same color hair (is she color blind?). We can understand the old ladies not getting it, but a woman in her 40’s from Santa Monica? Next time we’re going to get T-shirts printed with “We’re NOT Brothers!”

All of the Deck Stewards are busily collecting towels and rolling silverware in napkins for the island BBQ tomorrow. Unlike the last World Cruise luncheon that was held at a hotel, this one is on a deserted island. Everything must be brought from the ship, including the waiters.

We took some Valentine M&M’s and wine down to the Front Desk people. Only the two guys were there, but Billy was thrilled. Bill told him he had to share with everyone because Jessica was whining. His response was, “What else is new?” The lobby now has red and white balloons lining the railings, in addition to the red bunting.

We received Thank You notes from Renato for his birthday champagne and another signed by all four of the Front Desk people. On the way to Palm Court before dinner, we dropped off our pre-paid gratuity form and chatted with Jessica for a while. She said that Jeff is moving to Laguna Niguel after this cruise. Desk clerks must get paid more than we think or he has something else going for him.

As we were walking into Palm Court, the singer from the Starlite Orchestra called our names. She came over and asked where we’ve been because she hasn’t seen us by the pool during the afternoon session. We told her it was too hot. She asked our first name, so now she knows who is who.

There was a big party going on in half of the Palm Court, but we never figured out what it was for. It wasn’t for World Cruise guests because we weren’t invited and neither were Mel and Barbara.

We finally got the chance to get a real photo of David, the Cruise Director, and the bar waiters, Felix and Oliver. Oliver has been here for years, Felix is fairly new.

Tonight’s dress code is Informal. Of all night’s, wouldn’t one expect Valentine’s Day to be formal? There is even an Officer’s Ball tonight where it would be appropriate.

Appetizers
Lobster Cocktail Garnished with Crab Claws and American Cocktail Sauce
Warm Goat Cheese Salad with Toasted Pistachios, Pesto Vinaigrette, and Lavosh
Oysters Rockefeller
Chilled Cup of Fresh Fruit with Fresh Berries and Grand Marnier

From the Soup Kettle
Potato Soup with Shitake Mushrooms and Truffle Oil
Roasted Garlic Consommé with Olive Croutons
Chilled Herb Cream with Baby Shrimp

Salads
Selection of Garden Spring Leaves with Deep Fried Cheese Balls
Chopped Romaine Lettuce with Potatoes, Red Bell Peppers, Onions and Garbanzo Beans

Main Fares
Roasted French Duck
Pan-Seared Sea Bass Fillet
Pan-Seared Herb-Marinated Pink Lamb Tenderloins
Grilled Rib Eye Steak

Dessert
Special Valentine’s Heart Strawberry Cake
Almond Cheese Cake with Sour Cream and Fruit Sauce
Mocha Panna Cotta with Caramel Sauce
Sugar-Free Yogurt Fruit Terrine
Sugar-Free Raspberry Cream Puff
Homemade Cookies
Fig Cassis Sherbet

Food review: The soup was excellent, the same as last time it was served. Both salads were satisfactory, but nothing special. Our entrees were very good. Augusto thought Bill’s lamb looked like rabbit. The steak was huge. The vegetables and potatoes served with the main courses were poorly executed, but we had plenty to eat anyway. Desserts were average. For the first time ever, the cookies were better than the desserts.

Augusto whined about missing his wife and how she was mad because he didn’t arrange to send flowers. Ger said he had ordered flowers over the Internet to send to his boyfriend. He said it so loudly that the woman at the table on the other side of the glass wall heard him and turned around. Jerry is feeling a bit left out now that we have something to talk about every night with both Augusto and Ger, so we will make a point to include him from now on.

The main entertainment tonight is David de Havilland’s Annual Officer’s Ball from 8:00pm to 12:30am. We just went to look at it to see what they were up to. They did a nice job of decorating with red and white balloons everywhere and a big balloon arch over the stage. The point was for romantic dancing, so we had no intention of staying, which we didn’t.

James Michener called it the most beautiful island in the world. And so will you, for Bora Bora is the fulfillment of your every fantasy of how an island paradise should be.

Majestic 2,000-foot high peaks tower over the tranquil lagoon, their reflections mirrored in the glassy waters. Thatch-roofed huts lie cradled beneath shady palms on sugar-white beaches as the scent of exotic flowers wafts thought the air.

Colorfully decorated “le trucks” await onshore for your exploration of the island’s awesome beauty. Nearby, glass-bottom boats lie poised, ready to introduce you to an undersea world that is rich with vibrant sea life.

Both of us were awake well before the alarm was set to go off at 8:30am. That gave us plenty of time to have a light breakfast in the Lido and still make it down to the Starlite Club to meet for the early departures to the World Cruise Luncheon.

Or so we thought. When we arrived at the Starlite Club there were just a few guests and a woeful Artie who told us there was a delay and to come back after we heard an announcement. He said it would be at least 11:00am before they were ready.

Luckily we didn’t wait for an announcement to return because when we did go back at 11:30am, they were taking groups to the boats. We never heard an announcement and we were in the public areas the entire time. The only thing that prompted us to go check on the timing was after we saw a little boat take a bunch of waiters and some supplies away.

We wouldn’t want you to miss anything, although we did. Here is the Crystal Dining Room lunch menu:

Appetizers
Grilled Mediterranean Vegetables, Topped with Calamari-Jumbo Shrimp Salad
Pork Quesadillas with Guacamole and Sour Cream
Non-Fat Cottage Cheese with Mandarins and Assorted Berries
Exotic Fruit Cup with Kiwi and Blue Curacao

From the Soup Kettle
Cream of Celery with Whole Wheat Croutons
Beef Consommé with Herb Célestine
Chilled Cream of Passion Fruit

Main Fares
Island Chicken Curry
Grilled Tuna Sticks
Beef Tacos
Sandwich of the Day – The B.L.T.

Desserts
Banana Fritters with Vanilla-Honey Sauce
Yogurt Apricot Cake
Pistachio Truffle Tart with Chocolate Ice Cream
Sugar-Free Almond Ice Dumpling

We waited until the last group and went down to board a little sightseeing type of boat for the short ride out to a private island at the entrance to the bay. The setting couldn’t be more beautiful. The ship is anchored in the bay directly in front of the famous mountain. The Bora Bora Lagoon Resort is within swimming distance.

The boat ride was pleasant, although it is extremely hot. Weather is threatening, but it never rained any significant amount.

Upon arrival at the island, a receiving line of ship’s officers was at the little dock. Everyone was greeted by the locals with a fragrant flower lei and given a tropical drink. After that, it was every man for himself.

Since we were the last group to arrive, most guests were already seated and eating, so we had to find empty places and grab them. We ended up at a picnic table with the same couple we sat with at the Milestone Dinner and Val, the Dance Captain. They warned us that this table was in the sun, but it was cloudy, so it wasn’t bad. Dave had put sun block on everything except his arms, which, of course, were the only part of him that was in the blazing sun. Val gave him some sunscreen, which was nice of him. We didn't realize Val was standing there when we snapped this photo of the view. That's him in the Speedo.

We waited until the most of the people had gone through the buffet and made our way to the end of the line, behind some of the local entertainers. The food was uninspired to say the least, but we know how much effort went into it, so we aren’t complaining. The salad selection was particularly pointless, but they had every kind of meat and a fish selection on the BBQ. Too bad most of it wasn’t cooked yet when we got to it. The curry chicken was very good. Everything else was average or below.

Dessert consisted of some excellent pineapple and a couple of other tropical fruits, and a nice variety of sweet breads, such as banana nut and fruit.

During the meal there was some local entertainment. We had to fight the dancers off more than once when they tried to get us involved during the audience participation part. At least they took no for an answer which is better than most of these types of shows. The entertainment was acceptable, but we got bored and went off to walk around the island for some photos. The water is many shades of blue and turquoise. It’s shallow enough to walk quite far out and only be waist deep. We didn’t go in the water, but the staff and several guests took advantage of it.

We chatted with Steven, the Front Office Manager for a while. He is leaving in Sydney and will be back in San Francisco. We keep forgetting there is over a month in between there, which is long enough for his vacation.

During the course of the day, we heard several versions of why there was such a delay. Boiling it down to the most plausible conclusion, here is what happened. When the first landing party showed up at the island, loaded with food, the locals freaked out and wouldn’t let them land. We had been warned in no uncertain terms that no food of any kind was to be taken ashore. Apparently, no one thought this applied to the ship’s staff. Wrong! Eventually, it got so out of hand that the police had to be called to come from Papeete, which is 150 miles away. Hence the four-hour delay for the food service staff. They managed to throw it together and it looked fine to us, but that is possibly why the selection was small in the produce department. From looking at what we had, it appears they might have had to buy it all locally and prepare it on the spot. We do know that the whole thing was settled by greasing a few palms. What else is new?

Toward the end of the afternoon, the waiters decided to throw Leo, the Lido Maitre d’, in the ocean, fully clothed. He was hanging onto a tree with ten guys trying to pry him loose. Eventually they succeeded in tossing him into the water. Thank God they didn’t involve the guests in any of this. It was nice that they let the waiters go swimming after the serving was done. They were all walking around in various states of undress while finishing the clean up. In most cases, this was not a good thing, with a few exceptions, of course. We found out later that Leo had a brand new digital camera in his pocket, which is now ruined.

As usual, we waited until the last boat to go back to the ship. We felt sorry for the staff that had piled all the dirty dishes on the pier. They brought china, silver, silver salt & pepper shakers, crystal glassware, linens, silver chafing dishes, and two enormous BBQ’s over on tiny tourist boats. There was also a full bar set up with all the associated supplies. Mind you, we were eating on wooden tables on a deserted island. Of course, the tables were covered with Frette linens.

Once back on the ship, we just made a pit stop to wash up a bit and then we took the ship’s tender to shore. This took all of five minutes.

There is really nothing in the “town” to see except a small church and the dramatic backdrop of towering cliffs and lush greenery. The only shops were all selling the same things: paréos and shell jewelry. Everything is very expensive. We noticed a price on a nice abalone shell necklace of $80.00 US. The highlight of the village was the many cute puppies wandering around. Otherwise, there was nothing of interest. This is the kind of place where people stay in their self-contained resort and participate in water sports or beach going. The port area is microscopic.

We were back on the ship within an hour and out on our verandah gazing at the scenery. Eventually, Ural showed up and knocked on the glass to bring us our daily snacks. This time, instead of guacamole, we got some black bean avocado dip (ghastly) and some pineapple salsa that was outstanding. We didn’t touch the vegetable platter.

The ship sailed at 6:00pm, so we had to run up on deck to watch that in the middle of our snacking. Then it was time to wash of the days grime and get ready to eat again. By the way, the sailing was an hour later than originally scheduled.

Tonight’s dress code is Casual. We picked up some film we had dropped off for processing and say in the lobby to wait the twenty minutes for the Dining Room to open.

Appetizers
Rock Shrimp Cannelloni
Gravlax
Vegetable Terrine
Chilled Fruit Cup with Tia Maria

From the Soup Kettle
Traditional Tomato Soup with Italian Bread
Chicken Broth with Chive Quenelles
Chilled Cream of Mandarins

Salads
Heart of Boston Lettuce with Marinated Cucumbers and Tomato Wedges
Commander’s Salad

Main Fares
Broiled Striped Bass Fillet
Boned Breast of Pheasant in Potato Crust
Roasted Pork Tenderloin
Grilled Fillet Steak

Dessert
”Délice au Café” – White Chocolate Coffee Cake with Espresso Sauce
Chocolate Brownie Ice Parfait with Brandy Cherries
Rum Scented Almond Tart with Rum Raisin Ice Cream
Sugar-Free Apricot Jalousie
Sugar-Free Coconut Custard
Tropical Fruit in Season
Homemade Cookies

Food review: Do not combine Tia Maria and fresh fruit. Enough said. Both the soup and salad were very good. The Port Tenderloin was outstanding. We both had ice cream for dessert. As Ger said, “Ice cream is ice cream.”

We received a bottle of wine from Adair. Antonio was annoyed because Daniel had insisted he bring it tonight thinking this is the 16^th. Then Daniel freaked out because he thought maybe it was for a special occasion he didn’t know about. Tonight was better anyway because we will be at the BBQ on deck tomorrow.

Jerry carried on about how fun it was to see the hula dancers this afternoon. We had heard some of the waiters talking and they were all waiting for the “shaking their hips” part. Working on a ship is sort of like being in prison, huh? He’s hoping to get a chance to go up on deck tomorrow night during the local show and the deck BBQ off of Moorea.

A letter was waiting on the mail clip from Crystal saying we will be “allowed passage” on the Crystal Serenity’s Grand Inaugural Voyage. Of course, we already knew that. It also restated what we also already know; they don’t know the exact itinerary (it’s from Dover to Dover), the cabins won’t be assigned until March, and they haven’t decided what the fares will be. In other words, we don’t know anything except that we are going.

No sleeping in tomorrow. There is another crew fire drill at 10:00am, so they will begin screaming in the cabins at 9:00am that we shouldn’t be alarmed by the alarms at 10:00am. Ger said there is a “find the bomb” drill for them at 4:00pm, so that pretty much screws up any chance of going ashore for them.

By the way, if you ever want to hijack a cruise ship, just walk through the metal detector with whatever you have in mind. We stood and watched an entire boatload of people walk through it. Over half of them caused all the lights to flash and alarms to sound, but no one even looked up. They make you run every single package through the X-ray machine, but the attendant never looks at the screen. Maybe they hire these people at our local airport?

Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia, is by no means a sleepy town. With an international airport, wide waterfront boulevard and new buildings, it boasts all the modern trappings of civilization.

Its engaging atmosphere is vibrantly alive, a marvelous potpourri of European manner and carefree island ways.

A few steps from our pier, boutiques and galleries abound as Tahitian shopkeepers dressed in bright “paréos” greet customers with a welcoming “iaorana.” The nearby open-air market is a bustle of activity. Away from the clamor or town are peaceful fern grottos, tiny villages tucked in verdant valleys and ancient sacred marae.

By the time the crew fire drill rolled around at 10:00am, we had already finished breakfast and were just sitting outside waiting for them to re-open the fire doors. Ger came out wearing a life jacket, but ran away to check in before he got in trouble.

It is raining today. Sometimes it pours rain, but it is usually brief. The rain helps mediate the heat, so we’re not complaining. We waited until afternoon to go ashore because of the rain showers.

Crystal Symphony is tied up next to two of the Renaissance ships, R3 and R4, which were seized for failure to pay their fuel bills. They appear to be well cared for with a few maintenance men wandering around on deck.

The shuttle busses are the famous “Le Truck” busses that are small school bus type affairs with flowers adorning the sides. Crown Princess is taking up the prime docking location right in the center of town, but the ride in the shuttle only takes about ten minutes around the port. We were dropped off at the main shopping district along the waterfront.

We have been constantly told not to expect much here in the way of “paradise,” but it looks pretty much like Honolulu did maybe fifty years ago. There aren’t any high-rises, but there are many modern buildings among the older ones.

The modern shopping area wasn’t of any interest to us. The wares consist of typical duty-free shops selling expensive perfume and such. Most of them are closed today. We walked up to the end of the main strip to get a photo of the boulevard along the wharf.

There is a huge marketplace where the locals come to buy produce, fish, etc. The lower level houses the fresh foods, while the upper level is full of small handicraft shops. There was a live band playing festive music that helped add to the mood. Although it was hot and crowded, it was fun to browse. We bought a couple of shell items, but we passed up the millions of paréos and t-shirts. At one point it poured rain, which was quite a scene on the corrugated metal roof of the market.

Making a purchase took forever as the merchant took his time to carefully package it in bubble wrap and then wrap it in tropical paper. We’re in island mode!

Back to the ship for lunch of hot dogs, cheeseburgers and pizza. It was too late for a “real” lunch, but here is the menu so you will know what we missed.

Appetizers
Cornets of Salami with Marinated Artichoke Hearts
Chicken Satay with Peanut Sauce
Matjes Herring with Apple and Sour Cream Sauce
Chilled Fruit Cup with Kahlua

From the Soup Kettle
Caldo Ajo Queso – Creamy Garlic Soup with American Cheese and Cream
Beef Consommé with Vegetable Roll
Chilled Tropical Fruit and Barbecued Chicken Soup

Salad
Vitamin Salad – Mixed Greens with Kiwi, Grapes, Oranges and Toasted Almonds

Main Fares
Stir Fried Beef Farmer’s Style
Sandwich of the Day – Toasted Mozzarella, Radicchio and Chicken Breast
Pan Fried Plaice Fillet
Grilled Pork Chop

Desserts
Apple Slice with Vanilla Cinnamon Sauce
Ice Coupe with Warm Raspberries
Marble Caramel-Chocolate Tart
Sugar-Free Sour Cherry Tartlet

We had to move out by the Seahorse Pool because the roof is closed over the Neptune Pool and it is stifling. Outside, with the rain and the breeze, it is rather pleasant. The Deck Stewards were doing their best to keep things arranged for the BBQ tonight, but the pouring rain didn’t help any. Benjamin said that they might have to move everyone into the Lido to eat and have the local entertainment in the Palm Court.

As Crystal Symphony enters Cook’s Bay, the dramatic spire made famous as Bali Hai in the movie “South Pacific,” towers ahead and welcomes you to Moorea.

Moorea is an island jewel of crystalline lagoons, , fjord-like bays, azure waters and velvety mountain peaks. Pristine beaches are flanked by groves of pineapple, vanilla and coffee. It seems only natural that this exquisite island should have been selected as the location of the 1983 movie, “The Bounty.”

The ancient Polynesians chose Moorea as their pleasure island. After your visit, you’ll see why.

As the ship will be visiting Moorea during the evening, there will be no shore excursion program.

It took only an hour to reach the anchorage in a tiny bay beneath the towering spires of Moorea. It is a stunning setting to be sure, but it will be dark shortly so we’re not sure what the point of this is. There is no tender service here. The only reason for the stop is as a backdrop for the BBQ on deck tonight.

Oh wait, we now know the point! A helicopter followed the ship into the bay, hovered for a photo op, circled the ship taking close-ups, and took off. Crystal must spend a fortune orchestrating these arrangements for the sake of pretty photos in next year’s brochure.

The fact that we aren’t going ashore here is a shame. It looks absolutely idyllic and just what one would expect of a tropical island. By the way, it isn’t mentioned in the brochure that this is only a pit stop and not a port of call. Of course, by the timing, one should be able to figure that out.

Our dinner is at the Tahitian Twilight BBQ on deck, but if you happen to be a spoilsport, here is what’s on offer in the Dining Room tonight.

Appetizers
Seafood Rendezvous
Salad of Roasted Chicken Breast, Avocado and Black Olives
Roasted Eggplant Terrine with Marinated Young Garden Greens
Fresh Papaya, Grape and Banana Cup with Fresh Mint

From the Soup Kettle
Island Style Portuguese Bean Soup
Beef Consommé with Asparagus Ravioli
Chilled Sweet Corn Soup with Chili Crab Salsa

Salads
Romaine Lettuce Hearts with Warm Bacon Dressing and Herb Toasties
Marinated Assorted Bean Salad and Red Leaf Lettuce

Main Fares
Sautéed Veal Scaloppini
Ginger Pesto Crusted Fresh Snapper Fillet
Roasted Game Hen Half
Grilled Black Angus Sirloin Steak

Dessert
Chocolate Macadamia Nut Brownie with Double Caramel Ice Cream
Pina Colada Cake
White Mocha Mousse with Chocolate Sauce
Sugar-Free Strawberry Mille Feuille
Sugar-Free Apple Cake
Homemade Cookies
Assortment of Fruit in Season
Nonfat Raspberry Frozen Yogurt

The entire Lido Deck, inside and out, was full when we got there at 8:00pm. We really thought there would be nowhere to sit, but went through the buffet anyway.

Tonight’s selection wasn’t as good as the last deck BBQ, but everything was tasty. There was a huge variety of meat, chicken and fish. We didn’t have dessert, but it was the usual array.

Ricky got our iced tea and we followed him outside to find a table. Unfortunately, he put us at a table next to a group of people who think they are the life of the party. We weren’t the only ones rolling our eyes.

At one point, Artie joined us, but a woman at the party table eventually made him dance with her. He came back, but someone else in the party accosted him, so he gave up and moved on.

The Starlite Orchestra provided dance music until 9:15pm, and then a local group of Tahitian dancers did an hour-long show. We moved up to the deck overlooking the pool to watch the show. Percy was there and we had a chance to find out who his wife is who we are supposed to know from a Holland America cruise. A name and photo didn’t jog our memory, but we pretended we knew her.

The Tahitian show was similar to the group we saw at the World Cruise lunch. We aren’t sure it wasn’t the same group, in fact. Still, it was entertaining enough. It started to sprinkle a bit just as the show began and guests started putting their seat cushions on their heads. It wasn’t raining, it was sprinkling.

The idiots who were making a spectacle of themselves when we were eating had moved to the edge of the Jacuzzi by this point. One of the women put her cold wine glass in the hot water and the stem snapped off and shattered. At first, they all acted like little kids caught in the act. Someone tried to fish the glass out by hand, which is impossible. We really thought they were just going to walk away and not say anything, but later the bar manager went over with the pool man, so they or someone else must have reported it.

Once the show was over, all of the guests vanished within minutes. Jan and Rudolf stopped to chat and we stayed out on deck until well after the ship sailed at 11:00pm. Rudolf is the one who choked when the hair stylist asked if we are brothers. He said he was so mortified when she did that that he had to leave the room. We didn’t care as much as he did.

Rudolf turned out to be funny and interesting. At least he thought most everything we said was funny, so that makes him a great person right off doesn’t it?

A pool man came out and threw a guest out of the pool and put “closed” signs all over it. The people who had broken the glass in the water came out in swimwear and were all bent out of shape because the pool was closed. The bar manager said it was due to the broken glass, but they failed to see why they couldn’t use the pool anyway. She should have let them, but of course they would have been the first to sue if they stepped on the glass.

Rudolf and Jan told us about one of the guests who chews garlic every day. She knows she reeks, so she tells them it’s OK to step back. Jan said he actually does step back when she says that, which appalled Rudolf.

Once we sailed and the wind died down, it became too hot to stay outside any longer. Besides, all of the excitement was over by this time (midnight).

It’s another early wake up call for us today. No particular reason except we went to bed fairly early last night. The Captain made a big faux pas in his morning announcement by saying tomorrow is a sea day. We knew he was mistaken, no big deal. A few minutes later, he came back on to say he made a “huge error” and now he knows how big his audience is because everyone called the bridge.

OK, we can see maybe calling the Front Desk to see if perhaps there had been a change in the schedule, but is a call to the bridge necessary? Guess so.

Today is rain, rain and more rain. It’s still in the 80’s though. There is nothing to do outside today anyway, so it’s no big deal. But, the Captain said he was steering the ship around the squalls. He was fairly successful until 11:00am when it was unavoidable and it poured rain for about an hour.

We had a light breakfast of donuts and fruit in the Lido. The Bistro was too crowded and there was a showing of some new opal collection in Facets, complete with free Mimosas. That drew quite a crowd. Keep in mind that there is nothing in that shop less than $100.00. Most of the merchandise is significantly more expensive. That probably explains why they are still trying to unload the same stuff that has been in there since our first cruise.

After breakfast we just hung around in the cabin watching the “Your World…This Cruise” preview video and sort of napping.

Lunchtime finally rolled around and we went up to the Lido and loaded up on the Asian selection. Today it was a very good Sesame Chicken. The rain poured during lunch and for about an hour afterward. We took our ice cream out by the pool for our daily entertainment of watching the water slosh out. The Deck Stewards hadn’t collected the cushions in time, so they are sopping wet. However, Benjamin said they dry in fifteen minutes once the sun comes out. We find that a little hard to believe, but he probably knows more about it than we do.

Appetizers
Crab and Green Asparagus Quiche with Herb-Yogurt Sauce
Avocado Cocktail with Baby Shrimp and Yogurt Orange Dressing
Vegetable Summer Rolls with Thai Vinaigrette
Iced Fruit Cup with Strawberries and Kiwi

From the Soup Kettle
Chicken Broth “Mille Fanti”
Baked Cabbage and Bread Soup
Chilled Cream of Peanut Butter and Coconut Milk

Pasta Special
Rigatoni al Tonno – Pasta with Tuna Flakes in Fresh Tomato Sauce

Main Fares
Fisherman’s Platter -- Fried Jumbo Prawns, Scallops, Calamari and Fish Fingers
Sandwich of the Day – BBQ Shrimp Sandwich
Grilled Cajun Seasoned Turkey Medallions
Beef Goulash Hungarian Style

Desserts
Hazelnut Raspberry Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream
Cassis Chiffon Pie
Meringue Glace au Chocolate
Sugar-Free Lemon Delight

We finally got photos of the entire Front Desk Staff this afternoon. We had to catch them at the shift change to get everyone at the same time.

This is Crystal Society night, so there is another party to attend before dinner. More free drinks and God-awful hors d’oeuvres. The Starlite Club was nearly full and a couple from Arcadia joined us. David said he has to talk to us so he can learn to be as laid back as we are when he retires. Josef keeps saying we must be hiding, but we sit right behind him in the Dining Room every night.

One of the lecturers, John something, started chatting with us. He has been trying to make contact with us for a while, but this was his chance. He makes the rounds on several cruise lines giving lectures on staying healthy or something like that. He said Crystal makes it clear that he can’t talk about, “Death, cancer or bowels.” We saw part of his lecture on TV and he was talking about how to prevent gas and indigestion. Aren't both of those involved with bowels?

Tonight’s dress code is Formal. This is one of the dinners when the waiters have a sort of costume to go with the theme. In this case it consists of a black vest and a long white apron as a waiter in a French bistro might wear. The chargers are custom painted for Crystal by Guy Buffet and of course they are for sale in the gift shop.

Appetizers
Escargots Bourguignon
Lobster Salad Américaine, Served with Light Creamy Crayfish Dressing
Beef Carpaccio à la Harry’s Bar
Citrus Fruit in an Orange Basket, Perfumed with Crème de Cassis

From the Soup Kettle
French Onion Soup
Beef Consommé with Fois Gras Profiteroles
Vichyssoise with Bell Pepper Mousse

Salads
Panache of Mixed Greens with Red Leaf Lettuce, Chopped Egg, and Dijon Mustard Dressing
Vegetable Salad Niçoise

Pasta Special
Penne Lisce Boscaiole – Pasta with Pancetta, Mushrooms, Onions and Tomatoes

Main Fares
Pink Roasted Rack of Lamb
Baked Fillet of Halibut
French Style Bouillabaisse
Filet Steak Montagnarde

Vegetarian Selection
Potato-Cheese Ravioli with Assorted Forest Mushrooms and Light Parsley Sauce

Dessert
Soufflé Grand Marnier with Sauce Negresco
Gateau Opera with Vanilla Ice Cream
Glace aux Framboises – Raspberry Ice Parfait
Assortment of Fruit in Season
Sugar-Free Vanilla Profiteroles with Diet Chocolate Sauce
Sugar-Free Spicy Apple Sauce Custard
Petit Fours and Chocolate Truffles
Butter Pecan Frozen Yogurt

Food review: Everything was very good. The Halibut and its sauce were outstanding, but the potato balls that were on the plate with it weren’t cooked through. The soufflés were excellent, as always.

When we asked Augusto where all of the other flavors of soufflé went, he gave us the usual answer, “Just tell me and I’ll get it for you.” Bulant, a waiter we pass every day on the way in and out, came over to ask why we weren’t making Augusto cook pasta for us anymore. He was just joking.

There were several big tables of new arrivals who joined the ship in Papeete. They seem a bit out of place. Augusto was annoyed because the couple behind us snubbed the waiters when they were introduced to them. He told us all sorts of annoying things guests do, such as ordering a special dessert and then leaving before it is ready.

“Kia Orana” and welcome to Rarotonga, the main island of the Cook Group. This splendid island chain was named in honor of the great explorer Captain James Cook.

Rarotonga’s richly covered mountains soar 2,000 feet above white-sand beaches. Its encircling coral reefs create beautiful, safe lagoons.

Traditional cultures have been retained on an island where tranquil lifestyles are uncomplicated by the pace of the outside world. A smiling face greets you at every turn of the road, as the hospitality here is warm and spontaneous. You’ll be captivated by the exuberant dancing and easygoing ways of the gentle islanders.

This morning we awake to find ourselves anchored just off of the tiny port of Avarua. So close, in fact, that it would be possible to swim to shore if the water wasn’t so rough. Good thing for strong thrusters, or the ship would be stuck on the rocks like the other rusting hulks off shore. It is very windy, but the few rain showers go by quickly. The temperature is in the mid 80’s.

After a quick breakfast in the Lido, we made our way to the tenders for the brief ride to shore. During breakfast we had to endure a ridiculous conversation from a neighboring couple who kept watching the tenders. They referred to them as “vomitoriums.” Oh please, the ride is less than five minutes and it’s no rougher than anywhere else we have been.

Once ashore, we spotted Ural waiting for his girlfriend. He said there is a van to take us into the small village where the shops are. There was no mention of this in any of the information, but we figured we would ride in and walk back.

The ride took maybe five minutes, if that. We were dropped off right in the center of town, if you can call it a town. It is obvious right away that the standard of living here is quite high. The people don’t seem to be rich particularly, but they appear well educated and the town is spotlessly clean and neat. Cars are new, shops are well stocked, and the mostly Polynesian people look happy and well fed.

We strolled down the shady park dividing the main road through town. The big “attraction” here is the Seven-In-One Palm Tree at the traffic circle. Well, it is a circle, but there isn’t much traffic to speak of. No traffic lights either. This area really looks like Kauai did forty years ago. We didn’t see any hotels, but apparently there are some on the other side of the island. Only a few thousand people live here and since it is a British protectorate, everyone speaks English.

We were told there are no ATM machines on the island, but that isn’t true. There were several banks along the main road and all of them had every modern convenience. Credit cards are accepted everywhere, including the card table shops set up at the pier.

Our walk concluded just past the traffic circle at the end of town. It looks like a fairly pleasant place to live. The side streets are neat and shaded by groves of palm trees. The relatively flat area along the coast sports a backdrop of towering volcanic cliffs.

We turned back toward the center of town, passing a small church and cemetery, the Cook Islands Library and Museum, and some government buildings. All of them are rather unassuming, but nicely maintained.

We strive to purchase something in each port to use as a new addition to our Christmas ornament collection. In this case it is a Tangaroa carving with an enormous appendage covered by a grass skirt. Funny how that little detail was omitted from the Tangaroa God at Disneyland’s Enchanted Tiki Room!

The walk back to the tiny harbor took only about ten minutes. Once there, Benjamin, who was standing under an umbrella, offered us a choice of ice water or orange juice. We waited with him until a couple of tenders came and went to take the line of people back to the ship. They were also loading up cases of vegetables.

Benjamin said he wouldn’t be coming back after his contract expires because his wife is having problems coping all alone in the Philippines. He seemed quite sad about not coming back, but he said he has pictures of many of the guests and he tells his kids all about them. These guys spend more time on board the ships than they do with their families.

Back on board, we went up to the Trident Grill for lunch. The Ice Cream Bar now makes shakes, too, so we had to partake in that new luxury. Tonight is one of the alternative casual dinners around the pool. This isn’t the lavish buffet BBQ, just the new casual dining option. Too bad it’s only offered on casual nights, twice in 30 days, so it’s not much of a real alternative. Crystal must just do it so they can say they have it in the brochure. Obviously their heart isn’t in it.

Appetizers
Golden Fried Chicken Spring Roll with Soya Dipping Sauce
Smoked Salmon Roulade and Cucumber Salad
Pumpkin Galettes with Lingonberries and Apple Celery Salad
Iced Cup of Fresh Fruit with Banana and Roasted Almonds

From the Soup Kettle
Cream of Spinach with Roasted Potato Cubes
Vegetable Broth with Cabbage Strudel
Chilled Cream of Tropical Fruit

Salad Entrees
Crystal’s Chicken Salad
Crunchy Garden Greens with Mini Vegetable Burger

Main Fares
Roasted Orange Flavored Chicken
Local Fresh Fish Fillet
Grilled Barbecued Flank Steak
Sandwich of the Day – Hot Roasted Turkey and Pastrami

Vegetarian Selection
Yukon Gold Baked Potatoes Stuffed with Garden Vegetables and Blue Cheese

Desserts
Tequila Lime Tart
Chocolate Angel Food Cake with Chocolate Glaze
Vanilla Pudding with Chocolate Chip Cookie
Sugar-Free Mango Custard Pie

The remainder of the afternoon was spent cooling off and resting in the cabin. We sailed tonight at 5:00pm. An announcement was made to remind people of the rearranged show times for tonight. Remember, announcements are a rarity on this ship. When they make an announcement to “remind” us about anything it is only because the activity is about to begin and there is no one there.

Tonight’s dress code is Casual. We sat around in the Palm Court for an hour before dinner listening to the music and watching the Ambassador Hosts take turns dancing with the three women who were there.

Appetizers
Fresh Green Asparagus Spears with Gazpacho Dressing
Shrimp Escabèche with Caramelized Onions and Herbs
Sweetbread Roses on Crunchy Garden Greens with Sherry-Walnut Vinaigrette
Assorted Fresh Fruit Cup with Lemon Barcardi

From the Soup Kettle
Light Cream of Red Onion Soup with Ginger
Consommé Double with Cheese Profiteroles
Chilled Blackberry Yogurt Soup

Salads
Spring Lettuce with Lollo Rosso, Red Oak Leaf, and Marinated Green Beans
Traditional Caesar Salad

Pasta Special
Farfalle Siciliana – Pasta with Tomato Sauce, Red and Green Peppers, Anchovies, Garlic and Olives

Main Fares
Roasted Prime Rib of Black Angus Beef
Fresh Broiled John Dory Fillet
Oven Baked Free Range Chicken Breast
Seared Sea Scallops
Sautéed Veal Scaloppini

Dessert
Sour Cherry Bread and Butter Pudding with Vanilla Sauce and Butter Almond Ice Cream
French Dark and White Chocolate Mousse Bomb with Mango Sauce
Spanish Vanilla Cake with Bourbon Caramel Sauce
Sugar-Free Apple Pie à la Mode
Sugar-Free Mocha Custard
Homemade Cookies
Assortment of Fruit in Season

Food review: The best part of tonight’s meal was dessert. Everything else was just satisfactory. Although the prime rib itself was fine, everything that came with it was nearly inedible. One of the baked potatoes was burned on the bottom, the corn on the cob looked like it was left over from the BBQ days ago, and the broccoli tasted like plastic.

After dinner we asked Jerry if he was going on the crew tour overnight to Beijing. He was waffling on the subject yesterday and we knew there was more to it. He really wants to go, but there is something stopping him. Tonight we found out. He’s just trying to save every penny so he and his wife can finish their house. He talked for quite a while about his nearly four-year-old son and how he loves to play with him. It was really poignant to listen to him and that’s pretty much all we did. We didn’t interrupt him once he got started because he never does much talking. All of the other guests were gone by this time.

He traveled a little too far down Memory Lane and started to get choked up, so the subject was quickly changed to just general topics. Augusto joined in at that point and Jerry quickly recovered. We really had to drag the reason he was reluctant to go on the tour out of him. He wasn’t playing for sympathy just to get a big tip like some of the Filipinos do.

We stayed talking to Augusto for so long that disco music was blaring in the Dining Room by the time we left. He was talking about life in general, nothing worth repeating here. It’s quite obvious that some of these people have no one to talk to about their home life, so we just listen. Most of it is interesting and gives us an insight into how they live and the reason they are on the ship.

It’s another lazy day at sea. Overcast, but still in the 80’s. The sea is a bit rougher than it has been, but the ship is traveling more slowly than previously so the ride isn’t bad.

We just missed breakfast, so we wasted time until lunch in the Dining Room by picking up some photos and such.

Appetizers
Golden Fried Rock Shrimp Croquettes with Aioli and Pickled Radishes
Chicken Cocktail with Melon an dapple Pearls in a Light Curry Mayonnaise
Chick Peas, Garlic, and Parsley Dip with Pita Bread and Corn Chips
Assorted Fresh Fruit Cup with Pear Slices

From the Soup Kettle
Cream of Parsnip with Garlic Croutons
Market Broth – Chicken Meat, Vegetable Brunoise, Avocado Cubes and Tomato Concassé
Chilled Mango, Coconut, and Curry Soup

Salad
Marinated Ham, Cheese, and Black Bean Salad, Topped with Crisp Tortilla Chip

Main Fares
Grilled Swordfish Steak
Country Fried Chicken
Sandwich of the Day – The Union Square Sandwich
Minute Steak with Peppercorn Crust

Desserts
Boston Cream Pie à la Mode
Apple Fingers with Vanilla Ice Cream
Creamy Mango Cheese Cake
Sugar-Free Fruit Tartlet

All of the lunch selections were very good, but nothing special. The cheese cake wasn't very soft and creamy, but the flavor was quite nice.

Our afternoon was spent in the cabin. Although it is cloudy, it is very windy and extremely humid. It is so humid, in fact, that the deck is actually damp.

We were invited to a cocktail party in the Captain’s Quarters tonight at 7:45pm. The wind and rain have increased and with them the ride has become appreciably rougher. With the Captain’s room as far forward as one can get, you can imagine how fun it was trying to keep our balance. Most people did well though and the Captain congratulated everyone on their sea legs.

There were only about twenty-five guests there, plus a dozen or so officers and staff. We had an actual conversation with the Captain as we were entering the party. Usually, he has no clue what to say to us, but he was quite talkative tonight. Maybe he is getting used to seeing us all the time?

We were pleased to see that the “real” Keiko is back. She always made it her goal of the day to find us at least once. She was happy to see us again and said she still has our address card.

These parties are kind of fun for us because we know the staff so well. Whatever cocktail one desires is served and the same hors d'oeuvres that are served at every function are offered. Artie came over to chat with us. We tried to ask him some questions to keep the conversation going, but we just aren’t connecting. It’s not for lack of his trying though. He says he wants to have dinner with us sometime, but we’ll believe it when we see it.

Tonight’s dress code is Informal. The Dining Room is more than half empty tonight. It doesn’t really seem rough enough yet for people to be missing because they are sick, but you never know.

Appetizers
Crab Cakes with Pico di Crystal
Lemon Flavored Smoked Salmon with Spring Greens, Lemon Honey Dressing, and Onion Baguette
Goat Cheese and Leek-Stuffed Chicken Breast with Tomato Relish
Fresh Strawberry, Kiwi, and Banana Cup with Lemon Yogurt Topping

From the Soup Kettle
Roasted Vegetable Soup with Basil Oil
Beef Consommé with Liver Quenelles
Chilled Kiwi Soup with Low-Fat Yogurt

Salads
Tossed Iceberg Lettuce with White Beans, Celery, Tomatoes and Bell Peppers
Boston Lettuce Leaves with Artichoke Hearts, Chopped Egg, and Russian Dressing

Main Fares
Old Fashioned Baked Virginia Ham
Grilled Fresh Orange Roughy
Veal Scaloppini Sorrentino
Grilled Sirloin Steak
Broiled Chicken Breast

Dessert
Old Fashioned Pumpkin Pie à la Mode
Citrus Soufflé Cake with Vanilla Sauce and Pistachio Ice Cream
Hazelnut Ice Parfait with Sour Cherries
Sugar-Free Mango Chocolate Tart
Sugar-Free Rhubarb Mousse with Fresh Strawberries
Homemade Cookies
Assortment of Fruit in Season
Refreshing Grapefruit Campari Sherbet

Food review: The appetizers were satisfactory. Soup was outstanding as it was last time. The fish entrée was very good also. Unfortunately, the turkey in the salad entrée was raw in the center and was returned to the kitchen twice. We finally gave up after the second try. It’s not as though we are going to starve or anything, so who cares. Augusto had ordered chocolate chip soufflés with Kahlua sauce for our dessert. Everyone was hysterical because we had to wait ten minutes after the entrée fiasco for our dessert. We could care less. Where are we going anyway? The soufflés were outstanding, but not as good as the Grand Marnier variety. Jerry brought us two each, so it was a good thing one of us missed an entrée tonight.

Tonight’s entertainment is an “Evening of Music Featuring Your Favorite Classical Compositions” by Jonathan Plowright. We weren’t interested, so went directly up to the cabin after dinner.

“Westward across the vast Pacific, beyond Easter Island and Pitcairn Island, lie the sparkling gems of Moorea and Bora Bora. As Crystal Symphony sails further west towards the Cook Islands, Tonga and New Zealand, we enjoy the luxuries of our days at sea and look forward to the big city pleasures of Sydney.

We invite you to enjoy this handmade leather and woven straw frame as a reminder of your adventure. May it hold a favorite memory of this voyage.”

Rough seas and wind continued all night and on into today. The waves don’t appear to be the twelve feet announced by the Captain, but they are white caps. It is overcast, but no rain in sight. However, it is so humid that everything is wet and water drips down the windows. It is also so hot that the glass is warm to the touch.

We had morning snacks in the Bistro and just killed time waiting for lunchtime. We returned to the room unexpectedly and found Susanna and Rosalina cleaning with Ural sitting on the sofa polishing someone’s shoes (not ours). He was mortified, but we didn’t care. He said he would polish our shoes, too, which he did.

Finally, we were able to get Laszlo and Susanna together for the couple picture they want. They were thrilled when we had them sit on our sofa for the photo.

Lunchtime rolled around eventually and we chose the Dining Room over a South Seas “influenced” buffet in the Lido. Earlier, the Captain made it sound like there was to be a South Seas buffet around the pool, but there was no evidence of that. Maybe it was cancelled due to the roughness? Nobody knows or cares.

Appetizers
Golden-Fried French Camembert with Lingonberries
Tossed Petite Tuna Salad with String Beans, Anchovies, Olives and Boiled Eggs
Smoked Mackerel with Creamed Horseradish
Iced Strawberry, Papaya and Grape Cup

From the Soup Kettle
Roasted Garlic Cream with Rye Croutons
Chicken Broth Xavier
Chilled Grapefruit Soup with Orange Segments

Salad
Chopped Garden Salad with Tomatoes, Bell Peppers, Mushrooms, and Sprouts

Pasta Special
Tortiglione with Spring Vegetables, Roasted Garlic, and Grated Parmesan Cheese

Main Fares
Sandwich of the Day – Grilled Sirloin Steak
Seared Sea Scallops
Citrus Marinated Pork Scaloppini
Turkey and Green Chili Burritos

Desserts
Blueberry Pie à la Mode
Banana Chocolate Tartlet with Chocolate Ice Cream
Charlotte Russe
Sugar-Free Ice Cream Puff
Refreshing Citrus Sherbet

The grapefruit soup was too harsh to suit us, but it was edible. The steak sandwiches were very good and served with tasty chili mayonnaise and crisp onion rings. The pie wasn’t great, just acceptable. The Citrus Sherbet was almost good, but had a bitter aftertaste.

The waiter and assistant who only have one table of two at our dinner seating served us. They were just curious to see us up close and in person, which is why the assistant took us to his station. They were certainly jovial enough. The Dining Room was mostly empty, perhaps due to the roughness today. The window was actually hot to the touch and was radiating heat. We’re not setting foot outside today.

We asked Josef if we could invite Jan for dinner some night. The shop people aren’t usually allowed into the Dining Room, but if a guest invites them it can be arranged. Josef said it’s fine with him, but Jan has to get permission from his supervisor. That isn’t usually a problem.

We stopped to tell Jan what he had to do and to let him know that he can bring Rudolf. He chose the day after tomorrow, which is fine with us. He referred to Rudolf as a “nice little chap.” Jan is as tall as we are; Rudolf is maybe 5’6” at the most. They sure make an odd couple.

The rest of the afternoon was spent in the room keeping cool and resting, as usual. We wonder how many guests will be outside with their cameras today at 3:00pm when we cross the dateline? We know the Captain was joking, but want to bet more than a few people are out there waiting?

Tonight’s dress code is Informal. Guests are encouraged to wear costumes of the Medieval period in keeping with tonight’s theme. Literally no one participates in these costume events.

Ménage de Pain
Parsley Bread
Cinnamon Raisin Bread
White Sourdough Bread
Saffron Bread

Hors d’Oeuvres
Salmon and Smoked Sturgeon en Croûte
Royal Treasure with Caviar Pearls
Mille Feuille of Duck Fois Gras and Galvine Apples en Gelée
Chilled Melon with Mead

Potages
Chestnut Soup with Bacon Crisps
Elizabethan Chicken Soup
Marco Polo’s Chilled Melon Soup

Main Fares
Dover Sole à L’Orange
Coq en Pate – Roasted Capon with Bread Crust and Dried Fruit Stuffing
Filet of Boeuf “Hochepot” – Filet Mignon with a Mélange of Braised Short Ribs
Cote de Veau Forestière – Roasted Veal Chop with Sautéed Mushrooms

The Royal Feast Finale
Witches Pyre Flambé – Layered Apple Brioche Pudding Topped with Meringue Flambé
Pithivier – Very Special Puff Pastry Tart Filled with Almond Cream
Chocolate Vachrine – Layered Meringue and Chocolate Ice Cake with Candied Fruit
Sugar-Free Pear in Spiced Red Wine Syrup

Food review: This meal sounds better than it really is, but it is satisfactory. The soup sort of tasted like Tide detergent smells. The sorbet was tasty. The entrée was a weird combination of a small filet and a thin slice of what appeared to be meat that was cut off of rib bones. The filet was good, but the other meat had an odd soft consistency. The sautéed beets that came with the entrée were outstanding. The dessert was average, nothing special. By the way, the “candied fruit” was actually reconstituted dried prunes, an apricot, some raisins and a slice of apple. They were practically inedible.

Everyone participated in our attempt to get photos of the costumes. Even the table is done up in iridescent cloth with pewter chargers and goblets. We described most of this before, so it you are interested look back in the diary entries for the last segment for more details on the décor.

We were almost late for the show because Augusto got started offering to make all sorts of special things when Jan and Rudolf join us. As it stands now, he is ordering Raspberry Soufflés for dessert and will make some pasta tableside as an appetizer.

Time didn’t allow for the photo of Lara we were after. She stands outside of the entrance to the Galaxy Lounge in a lavish gown, complete with long braided wig. She was there, but so was the entire cast waiting to start the show. We’ll get the photo for you next time around. Keiko was also there in a wench outfit.

“All loyal subjects are invited to the celebration of 'An Evening in Camelot'.” Delight in the pleasures of the kingdom and revel in one magical night. Come enjoy the spectacle of Excalibur!” No doubt about it, this show sucks. At least we did get to see one of the effects they didn’t include last time, which is a Merlin suit that lights up. It must have cost a fortune. Otherwise, this is the same overblown effort to be majestic and show off a million dollars (no kidding) worth of costumes.

The weather is certainly bizarre tonight. Although it isn’t quite as rough as it was earlier, the wind is blowing so hard that the mist is flowing horizontally. We can’t tell if it’s fog, sea spray, or if it is pouring rain, and we have no intention of opening the door to find out!

Tonight’s Dress Code throughout the ship for the entire evening: NOUVEAU RICHE
Ladies: Taffeta NASCAR evening gowns
Gentlemen: Rhinestone Bib Overalls and Mink Cowboy Hats

Let Me Scald You Sweetheart – ‘Dem Bones
Three Toads in a Fountain – I Remember (Typhoid) Mary

The Crystal Ensemble of Singers and Dancers take you back to a time
when our worries were as quaint as they were embarrassing…

Oh, Monica!
Featuring David De Havvilland as President Bill Clinton
and Solange Freyere as Monica Lewinsky

This activities page was actually inserted into the Reflections program for the day! Wanna bet more than one person thinks it is the real thing?

From the glitter of an empty ocean rises Captain Cook’s “Friendly Islands,” the last remaining segment of the once far-flung Polynesian Kingdom. These were the only Pacific islands not to be colonized by Europeans.

The name of the capital city, Nuku’alofa, means, “abode of love.” It lies draped along the northern seacoast of Tongatapu Island and is the home of the beloved royal family.

Tonga’s endearing people still maintain the uncomplicated ways of years gone by. Their tapa and mat handicrafts reflect the finest traditions of craftsmanship and quality.

A joyous spirit of friendship and contentment will pervade your stay at this remote Pacific hideaway.

It either rained or threatened to rain all day. This might be a good thing because it is keeping the temperature in the mid 70’s. The Captain said getting into port this morning was difficult because the lights at the entrance to the harbor aren’t working.

This is one of the poorest Polynesian countries and the only remaining kingdom. It is completely flat as far as the eye can see. Quite a contrast to the majestic towering cliffs of previous ports. It appears that most of the island is no more than a few feet above sea level.

We had breakfast in the Lido and then decided to take the shuttle into town for a look around. From the look of the bus, we’re glad we didn’t book any tours here. The people seem pleasant enough, but this is obviously a very poor country.

Driving by in the shuttle, we noticed that the entire front yard of most houses, including a huge church, is flooded with about a foot of water. It doesn’t appear to be unusual either.

The ride to downtown only took about five minutes, but it would be too far to walk back as we had planned. Upon disembarking the shuttle, we ran into Jan on his way back. He told us to turn around right then, but we thought we should at least walk a block or two first.

Well, we lasted about a block before we were thoroughly convinced there is nothing here. There is a post office, a church, a big tree, and a collection of dilapidated pool halls filled with bored men. That’s not to say there weren’t any nice shops, but they catered to locals and sold appliances and such. The sidewalks are in disrepair and there is an inch of wet, rotting leaves everywhere.

We walked down toward the waterfront, but there was no way to get anywhere near the water so we turned back. The people still wear traditional woven cloth or other decorative “skirts” over their regular clothing. It is said to honor the king or God or something like that.

It took about fifteen minutes for another shuttle to come back, so we stood in front of the post office, people watching until it arrived. The people seem happy enough, although there are a lot of idle young people lurking about. It wasn't particularly threatening, but it is the kind of thing that breeds problems.

Back at the port, we shopped among the handicrafts. We bought a carved totem sort of thing that the carver added “Tonga 2002” to the back for us. We also picked up a nice woven straw basket that was marked $25.00. The woman said, “You like, I give you for $15.00.” That was without any prompting, by the way. The other item was also purchased “at wholesale.” Apparently, these people make a lot of the things sold in Hawaii. One man said that’s the only way they can sell their items because tourists never come directly to Tonga.

It rained a bit from time to time, but it wasn’t a problem. Occasionally, it would warm up suddenly and for no apparent reason. We were back on board by 1:00pm, so we went up to Deck 12 for our obligatory port photos and then went to the Dining Room for lunch.

Appetizers
Broccoli Tapas Gratinated with Mozzarella Cheese
Chilled Seafood with Spring Greens and Sauce Louise
Beef Salad with Gherkins, Onions, String Beans, and Red Peppers
Assorted Fresh Fruit with Strawberries and Blackberries

From the Soup Kettle
Turkey Albondigas Soup
Beef Consommé Madrilène
Chilled Lemon Zucchini Vichyssoise

Salad
Heart of Iceberg Lettuce with Boiled Eggs, Cucumber, and Tomato, Topped with Blue Cheese

Main Fares
Chicken and Papaya Stir Fried
Pan Fried Fresh Monkfish Fillet
Sandwich of the Day – Beef Hot Dogs
Crabmeat Omelet
Grilled Turkey Burger

Desserts
Cherry Custard Pie
Mozart Cake with Chocolate Sauce
Frozen Peppermint Soufflé
Sugar-Free Fruit Ratatouille with Diet Ice Cream

It was too crowded to get a small table, so we went up to the Lido instead. The food there wasn’t great, but it was mostly edible. The sliced cold meats are very good if you are into that sort of thing on a daily basis.

After lunch we retired to the room to nap and/or watch some videos we never get around to watching at home.

Just before sailing at 5:00pm, the Captain came over the PA system to make his usual port announcements, navigational information, and distance to the next port. He said, “I did my research this time and I know for sure we have three days at sea before we reach Auckland.” That’s incorrect, by the way; there are only two sea days. So, he was back moments later with a correction.

We went out on deck to watch the sail away. There was some scenic cruising along the waterfront and past the Royal Palace. The palace looks more like an old Victorian house than a palace.

Sailing out was interesting. There were huge waves crashing onto nothing. They just break out in the open. Upon closer inspection once we sailed out farther we could see that they are crashing onto reefs that are just barely submerged. No wonder the area is riddled with shipwrecks! The officers on the bridge were out with binoculars looking ahead for these hidden dangers.

As soon as we got beyond the protection of the reef, the swells really began to grow. It still isn’t quite as rough as it was yesterday, but it is by no means a smooth ride any longer. The ship really starts to pitch when the wind is blowing, which was the case last night. The waves tonight are bigger, but there aren’t any whitecaps. For the first time this cruise, there was a sunset worth looking at: Sunset 1, Sunset 2.

We debated about whether or not to go to the American Express Platinum Cocktail Party. Just as we decided not to go, several of our neighbors came out into the hallway and they were all going there. Finally, we decided it was worth the free drink to go, which is what we did.

When we first went out in the hallway, Susanna greeted us in the usual way, and then she said, “Wasn’t that a shitty port?” Rosalina’s jaw almost hit the floor. We weren’t quite sure at first if we had heard her correctly, but we had.

When we arrived in Palm Court for the party there were just a couple of people there. We didn’t know them. Lara and Atle were there to greet people. Norman took our drink order and we headed for the hors d’oeuvres. After that we hid behind the settee. When Barbara and Mel came in, Dave went over to say hello so they wouldn’t think we were hiding from them. Eventually, they came over and joined us in hiding.

Salad
Tossed Spring Garden Greens with Fresh Pear and Paper-Thin Sirloin
with Port-Wine-Orange and Star Anise Vinaigrette

Main Courses
Fresh South Pacific Grouper
or
Pan-Seared Tenderloin of Angus Beef with Three Pepper and Thyme Crust

In addition to Guest Chef L.Jean-Paul Lucy’s special menu items,
we offer these choices from the main galley:

Appetizers
Chicken Ravioli with Sage Butter and Tomato Confit
Iced Fruit Cup with Mandarins, Plums, and Grand Marnier

From the Soup Kettle
Green Split Pea Soup with Whole Wheat Croutons
Cold Soup of Yogurt and Guava

Salad
Tossed Romaine Lettuce with Walnuts, Melon Bits, and Pineapple-Papaya Dressing

Dessert
Chocolate Paradise Cake with Coffee Ice Cream
Pistachio Profiteroles with Chocolate Ice Cream
Sugar-Free Lemon Wheel
Sugar-Free Pineapple Pudding
Homemade Cookies
Assortment of Fruit in Season

Food review: For once, the Guest Chef’s items weren’t so bizarre we wouldn’t try them. The Shrimp Cocktail was outstanding. The shrimp were marinated in a citrus flavor sauce that was quite good. The soup was very good, as was the salad. The fish entrée was disappointing because the fish was way overcooked. The beef entrée was very good, but not as good as Crystal’s regular recipe for beef tenderloin. The dessert was attractively presented in a tall martini glass and garnished with a curl of chocolate and a grape with a caramel candy shell. The soufflé part was satisfactory, but not outstanding.

While we were sitting at our table after dinner, Bulant went by carrying a tray of dirty dishes. One of the dishes was a nearly full soufflé glass. When he dodged another waiter, the glass fell from his tray and landed upside down on the table behind us. Luckily it didn’t break and the dessert was still frozen, so it didn’t make a mess. We have expected something much worse than this to happen over the years, but this is the first time we have seen something actually hit a table during these traffic jams.

When Bulant came by with a tray full of new desserts, Dave ducked when he went by. He found that extremely amusing.

Jerry showed us pictures of his wife and child. He didn’t burst into tears or anything, but we can tell he has started thinking about being away from them for six months at a time. He said he couldn’t think of any other alternative at the moment. He said a guest offered him a job during his last contract, but we warned him not to always take them too seriously because the logistics of making the arrangements might prove impossible. He already knew that and decided not to go for it anyway.

Grand Pacific II - February 13 - February 22

Wednesday, February 13 – Cruising the South Pacific Ocean

Thursday, February 14 – Cruising the South Pacific Ocean

Friday, February 15 – Bora Bora, French Polynesia – 8:30 AM-5 PM

Saturday, February 16 – Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia – 5 AM-5pm

Saturday, February 16 - Moorea, French Polynesia – 7:30 PM-11 PM

Sunday, February 17 – Cruising the South Pacific Ocean

Monday, February 18 – Avarua, Rarotonga, Cook Islands – 8:30 AM-5 PM

Tuesday, February 19 – Cruising the South Pacific Ocean

Wednesday, February 20 – Cruising the South Pacific Ocean

Thursday, February 21 – Cross the International Date Line -- Skip Ahead One Day!

Friday, February 22 – Nuku’alofa, Tongatapu, Tonga – 8 AM-5 PM